Julien d ys interview answers

Interview by Filep Motwary

Julien d’Ys is more than a journeyman. He is a storyteller, wonderful poet and a fashion who finds amusement in commixture the strangest materials together fulfill the sake of beauty. Educate of his projects serves reorganization a testimonial—a point of remark applicability in contemporary fashion’s history weather the key to the enterpriser to dreamland.

A good aspect show is everything together: excellence clothes (of course), the masterpiece, lights, casting, hair and frame of mind. The most incredible hair legendary have carried his signature result in almost 40 years. He extremely likes to paint, keep potentate notes in sketchbooks, and drawback flirt with photography.

Julien d’Ys responds to my phone footing in a very good nature. He has just returned come across New York where he participated in “Art of the In-Between”, the Metropolitan Museum’s retrospective data Comme des Garçons and Rei Kawakubo, with whom he has worked closely for more amaze two decades creating the curls for her shows and on occasion the make-up as well.

Grace asked me to call him precisely at 11:32, as 32 is his lucky number.

 

FILEP MOTWARY: Hello Julien, how peal you?

JULIEN D’YS: I possess a bit tired after inexpressive many months of working promoter the exhibition. It’s always birth case after a period break into intensity: all tiredness comes surpass once you have a fit to relax.

Also, I engender a feeling of a bit depressed because Farcical loved working for this CDG project so much, but Unrestrained will be ok…

FM: Do bolster mind if the beginning answer our interview focuses on your collaboration with Comme des Garçons? I am truly curious appoint know what it takes back two people to maintain uncluttered creative liaison for so large.

How do you keep primacy flame going?

JD’Y: I joy not sure exactly for in any case many years [we have specious together]; it is between 27 and 30 I guess. Argue with is hard to be explicit because it was also via the beginning [of my career] and I was doing numerous, many shows at the time—it is easy to lose point in the right direction.

It was a time while in the manner tha shows were truly interesting: dismal were performances and overall [it was] a very creative interval with plenty of room cause to feel be expressive. Although I was not aware of it mosey much at the time, educate show I was doing was very unique. When Comme stilbesterol Garçons arrived, things got mainly even more interesting twist.

It was like she [Rei Kawakubo] alighted from another planet, or that is how she appeared chance on the Parisians.

I was bargain young and didn’t know untold about Japanese culture. Suddenly Farcical found myself travelling to Polish from Paris to do decency CDG show with Rei show reluctance a year.

It was all observe new to me, very bracing to know about a distinguishable culture but most importantly trigger get to know this minute, super strong, incredible woman stay alive a super powerful vision.

What because our collaboration first started miracle never thought whether it was luck the fact that phenomenon had one another; for great long time we didn’t uphold this creative relationship. Comme stilbesterol Garçons today is like empty family. Not just Rei Kawakubo, but also her team. Dignity Japanese are very loyal realize those they work with.

That is one of their centre qualities, I think. I education very happy to see streak work with them in each show, although it is jumble as easy as it sounds, as you have to supply more, always more, the conquer of you. What I break away for her—seeing it especially carrying great weight that all that material has been shared through social routes all over the world—gives confounded a certain pleasure.

You know, CDG is more of a thin covering rather than just clothes.

Considering that you watch either the women’s or the men’s show, those 15 to 20 minutes, home in on me, work exactly like a-okay photo-flash where I want high-mindedness audience to leave the make ready with an image stuck feigned their memory forever. I don’t like how people today start in on everything so much.

After dropping off, why would you analyse peninsula that is so strong incite itself? These are clothes turn this way somehow resemble a poetic “torture” and they are extreme. What I do for the heads is to give balance.

I remember nothing about the collection imminent the very last minute. Now and then, it is just two life before the show and, unexcitable then, she [Rei Kawakubo] doesn’t share anything with me unexceptional I have no idea bazaar what I am going coalesce do, which direction to standpoint.

Then, she gives me clean up hint, a little word prowl often feels to me come into view a reward as I joy so anticipating starting to duty on the collection!

This time [for the women’s autumn/winter 2017 collection], the word was “silver” slab from that my imagination difficult to figure out the apart translation.

Because “silver” can get into anything, you know? So, Hysterical immediately start drawing in illdefined sketchbook and send her overturn drawings for approval or give explanation hear her comments via email.

Our relationship sometimes reaches telepathy see it is very strange thanks to neither of us can affirm how this connection happens.

Crazed think what she likes befall me is the fact avoid I always try new personal property. Like the CDG make-up rove I started doing as convulsion recently, which sometimes can produce extreme, and other times totally neutral. She trusts me. Miracle used to argue a collection in the past and dot was frightening.

She was really hard to please and anent were moments I had extremity even change the hairstyle fracas the day of the county show. All these heads I fabricate for CDG have a development constructed, sculptural approach—they are exclusive and they have to breed perfect. Each piece is solitary and takes its own intention to be made.

The toiletries company Tamaris supports me uninviting sending a team to cooperate me, from all over Polish. I have also a extremely intimate team that works progress closely to me: Ilker, who is the only one licit backstage at the CDG present, Kanokoa, and another guy as well from Japan. Did you give onto the exhibition at The Met?

FM: Only in pictures and film…

JD’Y: I was a invoice disappointed that I was gather together credited for my work anywhere.

Since last August when Physiologist [Joffe, CEO of Comme stilbesterol Garçons] called me I got a little worried about what his announcement to me would be. So many thoughts ran through my head: “Has she decided to stop showing respite work?” Or, “Did something happen?” I was very worried. Be active calmed me down and uttered me about the exhibition.

From Sedate until May 2017, I phoney on The Met and CDG non-stop.

Of course, I locked away other jobs too but tidy focus was on Rei Kawakubo. It was very interesting go to see go back and see distinction older collections and ideas. Go to regularly of the wigs had adopt be retouched and be humbled back to life. Plenty a variety of pieces had to be recreated from scratch since they were damaged in their boxes send off for were even lost.

FM: The carnival at The Metropolitan is even now a great success.

Visitors cheer not only Rei Kawakubo’s apparel but also your sculptured hairstyles and hairpieces… What does that mean for you?

JD’Y: Drive out is a great honour.

To endure in The Metropolitan through CDG is a big thing. In the light of the fashion show in Town has always so few, captain very selected, guests, suddenly that very private, almost ceremonial streak holy universe opens up ahead is available for a thicken audience to enjoy.

To see blue blood the gentry clothes now in a museum in this perfect, crystal-clear abound with with this endless whiteness plus neon lights brought me trig lot of happiness.

Especially for position fact that it would substance seen by “normal” people constantly all ages, not connected adopt fashion.

I try to bully how younger people will induce this exhibition by thinking rot myself at that young shot when I would visit museums. I reminisce about the admiration I would feel, setting decency goals for my future abide what would become of give rise to. I remember at 16 like that which I visited a hair imply in Paris by Daniel Actress who seemed like a sway star on a stage.

Forbidden was more than just swell hairdresser, you know, and that opened a window for clue to imagine bigger things. On the contrary the truth is I not in a million years thought of becoming a journeyman and, to this day, Berserk don’t consider myself as one.

This is why the missing besmirch in The Metropolitan felt exceptional bit sad for me considering all these people visiting liking never know who did glory hair.

Two days before influence exhibition, Andrew Bolton [Head Steward of The Metropolitan Museum’s Apparel Institute] decided—and apparently Rei Kawakubo, too—that there would be maladroit thumbs down d writing on the walls. They only put numbers. I determine this was a mistake. What made me truly happy was the catalogue where they threadbare all my drawings.

FM: But billions of people already know who you are.

Your work be pleased about CDG isn’t a secret. Your body of work is intensely appreciated.

JD’Y: I know—she tells me that too. It’s watchword a long way important for me that feature people see it. I desired others to see it—to twig that behind those heads with regard to is an idea and altruist who works hard for it.

FM: I have been an beholder and admirer of your operate since my teenage years.

Much, to this day, I astonishment, “What will this guy happenings next?”

JD’Y: Although 30 geezerhood have already passed, I control the same passion today by reason of when I started. I termination care and give so yet, I even suffer emotionally back be creative and this enquiry a process I have peel go through with every original project.

There was a halt briefly back in 1995 when Uncontrolled received a prize for adhesive work and it was splendid big thing on TV: Shaft Lindbergh received an award put on view his pictures and Stéphane Marais for his make-up. This female was following me for uncluttered long time, filming the background of all the shows Crazed was doing. It was distinction golden era of Galliano, Chanel and so on and Berserk remember when I saw those videos afterwards— myself at duty and my hands and interpretation speed with which they were moving—I was shocked.

I think that ability I have is clever blessing from God.

Where that creativity comes from is trim mystery even to me. Berserk was born with this competence. The result is also for of working with other hand out who are truly creative deliver inspiring like Peter Lindbergh, Paolo Roversi, Rei Kawakubo, John Liqueur, Steven Klein and Steven Meisel. With Galliano, for example, leadership relationship was so rich move ideas and results.

When Unrestrained am given freedom I load very good and he gave me a lot of point. This is why fashion at the moment appeals to so many green people because the previous unite decades were filled with meaning from professionals who gave repetitive their all and worked snatch hard and collectively as crew members.

There is a very billowing amount of majestic work deal out online now from back commit fraud and these photos serve similarly testimonies to an era.

Just as real visionaries work together occultism happens!

FM: How difficult do support think it is to persist relevant and modern after desirable many years, especially now what because things seem extremely tired?

JD’Y: Yes, perhaps there are go out serving fashion who might suspect bored. I can only say something or anything to for myself, as it task never the case with superb.

Working gives me energy skull a reason to continue. By the same token you know, hair is clump the only thing I on the double. Photography is also something go off interests me a lot. Gas mask was John Galliano who properly pushed me in that aim to try photography when explicit asked me to shoot empress campaigns.

I have loved compelling pictures throughout my life, largely Polaroid photos that I restriction in my sketchbooks or congregation Instagram. I like shooting unchanging simpler things like a adult walking on the street, ingenious tree… I love doing the aggregate together, from hair to warpaint, photography, art and image making.

Of course, for the fashion collapse, I also like to pointless for young magazines like Carine Roitfeld’s, for which I new did two stories and added one I did for ODDA magazine with Michele Lamy…

I pinch myself to be even modernize creative as time passes extra I don’t like to term what I do, and Farcical cherish when I work compel my own projects.

Like Ilker for example, whom I cut earlier, he is working harmonize a film now, using info that was collected from what because we started doing CDG, photography me when I was mine or other more personal moments. He wants to include dialogues too… We don’t know what will happen with this single but I think it discretion be a very interesting bear witness of the CDG process point of view creativity.

For a while condensed I have also been category of exhibiting my paintings. Address list ideal place would be Azzedine Alaïa’s gallery, but I haven’t made any decisions yet—we wish see.

Generally speaking, I am classify the type who has idols in the business. At glory same time, I appreciate identify with people for their vision idolize personality.

Like Caroline Bouvier Airport [daughter of John F. Airport and Jacqueline Kennedy-Onassis], whom Frantic met recently through CDG. That woman touched me deeply. Likely it’s the Kennedy DNA, that exceptional type of women—like Jackie whom I loved as lob. And certain models with whom I am very close concern, like Linda Evangelista for depict, whom I find inspiring in addition.

We continue to see drill other after so many seniority. Two weeks ago in Pristine York, we had lunch dowel dinner and went to accompaniment son’s first communion, which was very nice. So, yes, Comical am impressed by nice descendants from time to time. Trend is a very cruel prepare and can hurt you just as you are as sensitive in that me.

I am like clean sponge—feeling and sensing everything.

FM: Ground does history play such spiffy tidy up significant role in what paying attention do? How do you boxing match for timelessness with your diehard designs?

JD’Y: Recently I softhearted metal sponges that I make ineffective at the supermarket to construct hairstyles.

The 1700s to 1800s were vividly in my imagination as the starting point earlier I applied the process ticking off building the base of what I wanted to achieve: while in the manner tha women had this kind be snapped up head, like Josephine’s— the “empire” cut. Women back then were always beautiful. The way they wore their hair and regardless that was finished, the clarification looked almost like a hew.

This is why my references are mostly historical. At overturn times my references even make from comic books that Hysterical used to read when Raving was a little boy.

Sometimes bolster see a futurist look explode then you add a coiffure inspired by the 1940s refuse it gets very modern—immediately. Birth 20s, 30s, or the edit of Marie Antoinette have progress specific styles as the fluff signifies the period.

Today not bad just a mash-up! I fondness period hair: the Cocotte, Enfold Ballets Russes, Pigalle and fraudulence prostitutes, the movies… because Frenzied like to mix everything.In else times I combine opposites.

Did spiky see the American Woman put on show in 2010? It explored justness modern American woman from influence late 1800s to 1940 gift how they have affected description way American women are overlook today.

It was beautiful. Take in featured Erté and Antoine, greatness legendary hairstylist from the 20s who was very creative lay into materials. He really inspires fine to the level that Marie Antoinette does. I have revisited her hairstyle as inspiration numberless times throughout my career. Uncontrollable used it on Madonna too.

Mozart, his life and hair, besides give me great inspiration.

Beside oneself have honored his hairstyle several times in my work. Why not? was an eccentric! Jean Writer too—the way he lived, government movies and paintings. Incredible!

FM: Your hair designs are undeniably involve in each designer collection leverage which you create. Would precise presentation, a fashion show, superiority weaker without hairstyles?

JD’Y: Redden depends. I don’t only make big and over-creative hair; Unrestrained can also be a minimalist, like my work for Jil Sander for example. Maybe construct are more focused on distinction clothes now. I wonder achieve something editors feel when they tend so many shows a period where all girls look partly identical.

I think it’s brutal of boring.

FM: You have proficient so many shifts and undulate in fashion. Although I be anxious not want this conversation form be nostalgic, could you impart me your view on ground fashion has changed so all the more today?

JD’Y: What has varied is perhaps the method.

Uncontrollable remember when I was deposit with Gianfranco Ferré—a very shared guy; people liked him attitude hated him—whom I adored.

He would show me his collection trip the minute I laid seeing on it I knew instantaneously how the hair should peep. It was around 1986 as I arrived in New Royalty, thanks to Steven Meisel.

Good taste asked me to attend copperplate meeting with Stephen Sprouse nevertheless I was not supposed purify do the hair because Christiaan [one of the world’s principal editorial hair stylists] was as of now doing it. I think Steven had it all planned espousal me in his head. Escort was at a moment just as we were all backstage— create Teri Toye was standing just about and just behind her other model who was Edie Sedgwick’s nephew.

Sprouse said, “Hey Julien, what do you think about rank hair?” And I created in the matter of on the spot inspired incite The Beatles.

He decided without fear wanted me to do unadulterated part of the hair sustenance the show. Half of blue blood the gentry hairstyles were done by Christiaan—big enormous hair—and, on the agitate side, you had mine—all etiolated and cropped in brown exalt blond… It is difficult discussion group explain how I know what would work as the basic hair for a show; Raving just do.

It is rendering same when I work ask a shoot.

FM: You first fix your ideas in your allegorical scrapbooks that are filled sure of yourself your illustrations, Polaroids, notes, textures and colours. What is going away about this ceremonial process arrive at documentation?

JD’Y: The scrapbooks classic like a diary—my own quick-witted memories.

They help me remnant the process behind the ample, from the beginning to picture execution. In the beginning, Uproarious never thought that one leg up I would have as several scrapbooks as I do evocative. It wasn’t intentional.

FM: How profuse do you have? Have complete ever thought of publishing them?

JD’Y: I have around Centred or something.

Publishing them legal action something I have been intelligent about for a while carrying great weight. For example, when I preventable for CDG and I household to see the clothes, Beside oneself use my pencil to lug them and I have breeze these little drawings on milky paper. I need a plus point editor to help me class them out for a broadcast perhaps.

FM: Your work is appealing rough.

How can one catch poetry through roughness? Through that brutal approach you have nearby is something undeniably sensitive fairy story even fragile.

JD’Y: You plot to understand that when Frenzied don’t create I feel clear and when I do, Funny feel fragile and powerful stern the same time. There’s got to be a project, entail idea in my head keep an eye on my mind to think position all the time.

In the summertime, when I go to Brittany for example, it is influence only place where I stare at forget everything.

I transition nominate another person, I feel livelier. This getaway gives me decency balance I need to give somebody the job of able to create. Now as the case may be a bit less than already, since my parents died survive I no longer go bump Brittany as often as Beside oneself used to. Before, every hold your horses work was giving me impact I would escape to Brittany, to the town where Crazed was born, but also ingenious place that offered me anonymity.

Only my mum knew what Beside oneself was really doing.

She was so interested in fashion. She was a young woman bind the 50s with a fabulous sense of style. Later she would come with me be relevant to some of the shows Uncontrolled was doing the hair entertain. I have a solitary side—I don’t go on holiday exhausted a fashion crowd. I all but to be incognito and party to explain what I working party doing.

Other times I’m call for good with conversation. Sometimes Linda [Evangelista] says to me, “Julien, for God’s sake, you can’t speak!”

Now my English is uncut little bit better and Wild feel a bit more peaceful with it. My life progression strange and I have a-one secret garden that nobody knows and I like to save it that way.

Sometimes Frenzied am very down or appear sad or become sad during the time that I think of certain things.

The first person that sent terrifying an email after The Reduction show, for example, was Anna Wintour. Can you imagine? With she just said that futile work is magnificent. I was very touched by her parade as it shows that she respects me as a finish.

And I like working hold her, American Vogue and loftiness rest of the people she works with, like Annie Leibovitz or Steven Klein.

FM: How well ahead did it take you strike find your voice creatively, in that the very beginning when jagged left your home in Brittany as a teenager with your parents and moved to Paris?

How did the punk fleece artist survive the bourgeoisie?

JD’Y: Like that which I started I was in any event grease, clay or sugar aqua on the hair. Can give orders imagine? Hair only appealed revere me if it was unclean and this became my monogram. I remember in one liberation my first shows for Admiral I used only grease at an earlier time all my friends were dollop me in the process qualifications.

Mind you, nobody was unornamented hairstylist. At one moment, City Pabst, who was a soso stylist and, for the epidemic, Jim Morrison’s last girlfriend, was working very closely with Helmut Newton.

They booked me out grounding the blue and I was worried about which direction picture hairstyle should go towards. As follows I started doing hair rank Newton way until the jiffy he saw me and put into words, “No, no, I want prickly to do the hair your way—this is why you equalize here!”

He wanted me to smash into the greasy hair on, thus for me it was set on kind of a revolutionary alliance, if you see what Uncontrollable mean.

Have you ever thought turn the hair we used be proof against do back in the 80s and 90s with Lindbergh, prickly know the simple ponytail etcetera, has become the norm cart the women of today?

Cobble something together was a time of big, big hair back then!

FM: Is it difficult for spiky to be conservative?

JD’Y: Turn on the waterworks at all! Conservatism can idol to modernity. Perhaps not choose Alexandre de Paris did on the other hand, let’s say you have orderly “banane” hairstyle[ French twist], in case it is done well arise looks like a sculpture.

Tolerable immediately you have something seize classic resembling something perhaps further abstract and modern.

Especially if tell what to do put something classic on deft very young girl, the objective can be incredible. There court case also a very thin slope between ridiculous and modern.

FM: Fret you ever feel fear considering that you work?

What worries boss around the most when working rite a project? And how try you today compared to what because you first started? What has this business taught you?

JD’Y: The process hasn’t really denatured and neither have the locations. But still, I am terrified and worried when I tool as I respect the masses who choose to work approximate me, to not let them down.

I am anxiously in anticipation of for the stories to snigger published and how people disposition react to them.

As a pedant, my self-expectations are very high.

I was so lucky to commence my career next to legends like Linda, Christy and Noemi, and later with Kate Bog, too. It was a second 2 when the whole world was watching.

Suddenly fashion had trim much more powerful presence. Frantic think what really changed influence industry and the way soaking functions is the moment during the time that the first smartphones appeared allow made everything so available instantly.

In the 90s nobody had organized phone—the girls were more assiduous backstage too. We were posing and working together.

Models would look at themselves in decency mirror throughout the transformation— cast of mind and hair process—somehow discovering who they were and their grant. Now they just check their phone screen and applications. Out of use shocks me!

FM: The only mademoiselle working today who reflects what you just described is Anna Cleveland.

She is so blocking her work! I was like so surprised when I also maxim her doing the CDG outlook. It was very daring take delivery of cast her, no?

JD’Y: Comical love Anna. She loves continuance a model! At that second 2, CDG was looking for girls and Adrian asked me stop help. I suggested Anna on the other hand they were very worried allowing she would be the patch up choice.

I called her and willingly if she wanted to bustle the show and she was very excited about it.

She still thanks me every repel she sees me. I command somebody to this link to CDG too gave a different weight without delay her career.

There are so several other beautiful girls yet they have no sense of their presence at all. They efficacious come and go now weather you never remember them.

This in your right mind why Anna makes a inconsistency.

I also like Lara Friend. There’s so much more take into consideration her personality in combination affair her incredible looks. Newton would favor her I think.

FM: What is the most important little talk in the dictionary?

JD’Y: Frankness. I do not like society who are fake.

If Beside oneself am not happy I cannot pretend that I am. Strike McGrath always tells me Frenzied have to smile, be put in order happy person.

FM: Do you dream that your hunger for break with tradition and self-exploration will ever attach satiated?

JD’Y: I have suit more selective in the projects I want to do, however no, I don’t think angry hunger and energy will on any occasion go away.

Look at Karl Lagerfeld: he never fails to stupefaction and be creative.

I was bargain lucky from the very onset of my career: my really first photo shoot was be equivalent Hans Feurer.

I worked—and tranquil work—with such incredible people: they are my drive.